Significant Other and I have returned from our brief expedition abroad (don’t feel too envious I’ve returned with a heavy cold and hacking cough which is entering its 3rd week), and whilst the weather hasn’t been quite the welcome we’d dreamed off (perhaps we were a bit unrealistic thinking global warming would have kicked in and we’d fly back to temperatures in the low 20’s and brilliant sunshine), it’s good to be back. Whilst I love exploring pastures new, it seems to be getting trickier to be a European abroad….
I’m not talking about physically dangerous, oh no, I’m talking about something much more serious than physical danger, I’m talking about shopping danger!
Now don’t get me wrong, I don’t go on holiday to spend all my days shopping (even in New York a few years ago I spent a half day in the Metropolitan Museum of Art… viewing an exhibition of Jackie Kennedy’s clothes), but I do like to sample the local shops whenever I’m abroad. I believe one can pick up an awful lot about the culture of the country and the lifestyles of the people by their shopping habits.
We had a private driver to take us around the island, which isn’t as grand as it sounds as this man, (who informed us on the second day of our four day tour that he had cataract in one eye, and had just had the other operated(!)), had our lives in his hands – I’m talking overtaking on a single lane regardless of whether anything is coming towards us, swerving, honking, breaking etc, this tour was not for the fainthearted! However, it gave us an opportunity to look at the local shop, as we gripped the seat in terror. So what did it tell me about the culture.. well judging by the number of yards liberally scattered around the island who were crammed with car and van pieces – bumpers, seats etc – they’re maniac drivers, but also poor maniac drivers who repair rather than replace.
The other thing which struck me as odd, as we travelled down the island, was the number of shops selling identical goods to their neighbours. I first noticed it as we queued to get past a road accident(!), and the road on which we queued was lined with stallholders and shops selling cashew nuts. Each property/stall was crammed to capacity with cashew nuts. That’s all they sold. Just cashew nuts. And during our half hour queue, I didn’t see a single cashew nut sold.
Then a bit further up the road, all the shops and stalls were selling terracotta pottery, then a bit further it was wood carvings, then the other side of the mountain it was all leather goods.
Now, I’m all for free enterprise and truly believe that there is enough business for everyone and that competition is a good thing, but why would you open up shop selling exactly the same as your neighbour? Because surely you’re going to have to be price competitive otherwise you’d never make a sale. So why would you want to sell product as possibly a loss? I mean, one never sees Waterstone’s and W H Smith next door to each other? Similarly Starbucks and Pret tend to have at least one bank, building society or phone shop in between them!
What’s so dangerous about that, I hear you ask? The danger isn’t from the driving, nor from the fact that each shops appears be selling identical handmade “crafts”, the danger stems when one steps inside…
I’m talking service.
Now I’m also for good service. Indeed, I’m the first to tweet if the sales assistant gives bad service, rude service, or no service at all. However, in some countries in the world, service has a completely different meaning. It’s supersonic.
Here in the UK, one can go into any shop and the sales assistant (if we’re lucky) will acknowledge our presence, may say hello, occasionally will ask if there is anything in particular you need, but generally if you say you’re browsing, nine times out of ten you’ll be left in peace.
Not quite so simple when one is abroad…
Whilst I fully expect to be accosted in the Souk in Marrakesh (actually the guy grabbed Significant Other’s arm as I’d marched off, with Significant Other yelling “Elizabeth, please come back and barter as he won’t let go of me”, at which point I looked at Significant Other towering over this skinny little teenager who was clinging to arm, and marched back barter for the “pashmina” I didn’t really want in order to release him, at which point Significant Other hissed “you’d better have the right money or I’ll kill you”), I don’t expect in general to be accosted or harassed.
I’m also unhappy with being over-served. I don’t like being followed around a store, and if I feel a hard pressure, I will just walk away whether I want to buy or not. My mother summed it up perfectly a few years ago in an airport it the Far East, as the chap was following me around duty free attempting to spray me with some vile smelling stuff in a pink bottle – “if you follow her, she’ll never buy”. It’s true, I don’t. I like to consider my purchase, I like to think internally about whether I want, need or will use something. I like to contemplate before making a decision. I do not want someone yapping in my ear trying to “sell” something to me.
Our first experience on holiday was at the wood-carving factory, a factory our driver just happened know of (it’s probably his brother-in-law’s!), where I swear we saw the proprietor rub his hands as we got out of the car! We were shown different woods, then shown the furniture, then shown the export department (the price includes shipping!!), then we were shown big pieces of furniture, small pieces of furniture, carvings, ornaments, and all we wanted to do was go and see the ancient ruins a couple of miles away! We were there for ages, he followed us around, he talked to us, nothing had a price on it, he talked some more, he made jokes at my expense (never good for a sale) and then he talked some more, before, eventually, one exorbitantly priced elephant later, we were allowed to leave!
Next up was the Batik Factory, where the sales lady showed us how batik is made (very informative to someone who tried it for Textiles GCSE and ended up with something resembling tie-dye!), then followed us around the showroom whilst we made a selection. Even after we’d made a selection (the cheapest piece we could find – it’s nice but not that nice), she kept showing us other options which were three times more expensive. Didn’t we want to look at this five foot piece of batik, what about a bed spread, would madam like dress, how about a beach wrap…
After that we went to the silk shop (again the guide just happened to know the owner, and said we could get a “discount” although, but a discount on what, nothing is priced up). The sales assistant (a little doll of a girl) insisted I try on a Sari (?), I don’t recall agreeing but the next thing I know I’m being tied up and trussed up in a Sari length. She then suggested that Significant Other try the traditional dress for men… which is a skirt. Clearly a moment of weakness for us both, as he also went along with it, although he did mutter something Germanic under his breath (just look at that pose in the mirror behind me). Photographs (oh yes) and lots of haggling later, and I’ve agreed to buy the Sari – not the skirt! – as the fabric is beautiful and I’m going to make a Sari inspired evening dress, but at least we could leave, or so we thought… “would madam like more silk, look at this silk, a very good price, I’ll do a better price, best price” …but it was phenomenally expensive – I pointed out that I could get the same thing imported from to the UK for a fraction of the cost to which she replied, “but not Sri Lankan silk”. I didn’t like to point out that the piece she’d shown me had “Made in India” stamped on it.
I admire their persistence.

Fancy dress in a Sari... but, just look at Significant Other's face and posture in the mirror!
After three days of ducking and diving in the tourist areas, I was relieved when we arrived at the ocean for a few days relaxation. Warm sun, crashing of the ocean and a book to read. No shopping, no more haggling, or more to the point, eye-contact avoidance and a million different ways of saying no. So it was with dismay that I ran out of after-sun lotion on the first evening. No problems, hotel gift shop, surely they’d have emergency supplies. I walked in, asked for after-sun, spotted after sun (I’m such a focused shopper, especially when there is a sunset cocktail with my name on it), and then spent the next fifteen minutes thinking of different ways to say “no I don’t want to buy a dress”… only to be rescued by my husband who demanded to know what was taking me so long!
Yesterday, I visited the beauty counter in Boots (foundation needs), all the girls were chatting at the other end of the counter, it was difficult to attract attention, took me ages in fact before they finally noticed me… gosh, it’s great to be home.